Stop Trying to Force Standard Infrared Lamps into Weird Ovens
Let’s be honest: off-the-shelf infrared heaters are great until they aren’t. If you’re working with a non-standard bending furnace, you’ve probably already felt the frustration. You try to fit a standard lamp in, and it’s either too long—hitting the frame—or too short, leaving those annoying cold spots that ruin your glass. It’s a headache. So, we just build them to fit your actual space. Getting the heat where it actually belongs When you’re cramped for space, you can’t just keep stuffing more lamps in there. That’s a recipe for disaster. Instead, it’s all about how much heat you’re hitting the glass with per square inch. Whether you need a specific length or a U-shape that hugs the workpiece, we can do it. The goal is simple: get the heat onto the glass evenly without accidentally baking your furnace walls. The nitty-gritty stuff We use high-purity quartz because, frankly, it’s the only way to handle the shock of rapid heating and cooling without cracking. Depending on how deep you need the heat to soak into the glass, we can go with short-wave or medium-wave output. And don’t worry about the wiring. Whether you’re using a basic R7s or some heavy-duty industrial leads, we’ll match the connectors to what you already have. A few things to keep in mind Custom shapes are great because they clean up your layout and mean fewer power feeds to mess with. But here’s the catch: if we pack a ton of wattage into a really short tube, that filament is going to get incredibly hot. You’ll want to double-check that your PID controllers and cooling fans can keep up with that localized heat. You don’t want your lamps burning out early just because the air isn’t moving. We’ll give you the exact voltage and wattage ratings, so you can plug everything in and get to work without worrying about blowing a fuse.